Flame painting seems to hold up to tumbler burnishing with porcelain spheres which might help stabilize the color a little before coating. I browned a brooch and tumble burnished it last week and it still looks as fabulous as the day it was made in spite of handling.
Andrea Robinson Silversmith, Gemologist, Motorcyclist, and Espresso Enthusiast MmeMagpie.com
I have been experimenting with heat patinas for 20 years. I do not use lacquer on jewelry. I think it is a problem for the owner of the piece in the long run, when it chips. The colors you are probably talking about are the low temp. patinas in the rainbow range. Those colors are a thin oxide layer. When you put any kind of layer on top you will change the light refraction which changes the color to some degree. There is a color range above that temperature range which is permanent if kept from acids including citric acid. Most potters are familiar with the "reduction red" that copper with turn in a gas kiln. That is the color I am referring to. It is a deep red in the brown to ruby red range. An example of this red is on some pieces of mine on the web site at spruceforest.org. I teach this type of patina in my classes at school and at Spruce Forest. You really need to see it done and have a hands on experience to do it on a regular basis. I do use lacquer on some outdoor sculpture. The copper that is regarded as the best is the one formulated for the copper industry. It is called Incralac, you can buy it from a professional re packager in spray can form - Custom Aerosol Packaging in Piqua, OH.
Post by dragontrollqueen on Nov 1, 2011 6:26:04 GMT -6
I'm in the same boat as I like the heat patinas, LOS and other copper doo-daddery. I use a product called ProtectaClear www.everbritecoatings.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7 which is formulated just for metals. It is California compliant, non toxic, takes time to dry and can be messy...but I rather like the results.
Heat patina is really quite easy. Heat in small doses, I do several pieces at a time. I line them up do like 3 seconds on each piece as I go through the line. Go back and start at the front again, when I like the color I hit it with a squirt bottle squirt of water to stop the heating/coloring process.